Turbo install from SRT4 to a Chrysler Cirrus I4! - DIYMA Car Audio ...

15 Hours Ago	? #1
? DIYMA Regular Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: 30 minutes from SF! Posts: 893 Thanks: 6 Thanked 33 Times in 26 Posts	PT CRUISER/SRT4 TD04LR TURBO MADE IN USA 2YR WARRANTY! | eBay That is the stock SRT-4 turbo I will be mounting to my car. We use the SAME engine style (the exhaust manifold is the same and my car DID come with a turbo at one point in Mexico version). I plan to boost 7-10 PSI with NO mods (fuel injectors, ecu upgrade) just turbo and inter-cooler. Any pointers? Anyone want to come by and help me out with this? ^_^
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13 Hours Ago	? #4
? DIYMA Regular Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: 30 minutes from SF! Posts: 893 Thanks: 6 Thanked 33 Times in 26 Posts	It is an automatic ^_^ Same engine base, but the internals are not the same. My car is geared towards non turbo. If I loose power at higher RPM range than I will add fuel, if not, no need (correct me if I'm wrong).
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10 Hours Ago	? #8
? DIYMA freshman Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Middle TN Posts: 39 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	You may have the same engine style, but I guarantee that the internals are beefed up or maybe even forged on the SRT. I would also bet that the compression is a bit lower and the injectors are alot bigger in the SRT as well. With 10 PSI, you do realize that you are potentially going to have a 75% increase in power (double with every 14.7 PSI boost). Stock injectors will not flow enough for this. I doubt that your stock fuel pump is up to the task as well, unless you get a FMU that ups the voltage to it. Your Air flow meter might be big enough to measure the air flow and not restrict, not to mention that the MAP sensor is probably a vacuum only setup. Your half shafts will need to be upgraded as well as the trans. There are alot of things to consider when putting a turbo on a non-turbo car and do it properly.
	Last edited by donnieL72; 10 Hours Ago at 05:56 AM..
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7 Hours Ago	? #9
? DIYMA Enthusiast Join Date: May 2010 Location: IL Posts: 1,147 Thanks: 14 Thanked 32 Times in 31 Posts	Any upgrade Turbo/Supercharger will need extra fuel. You are looking not only to upgrade your engine with more power but other things need to be added as well. As others stated, injectors, ECU re-tuned, Its not as easy as it seems to throw a turbo and call it a day! With Automatic Transmission, is no fun.. sorry,,,, I had had Manual since I started driving and I wont go back to Automatic until, I'm forced too or cant no longer shift. I have a Audi A4 2.0 Turbo, AWD, 6 speed, its so much fun, specially in the snow! and trust me, there is so much shit that could go wrong with it, you could have boost leak, low pressure in fuel lines, and other things. So many things could go wrong, I would look on SRT Engine with Turbo, and Manual Transmission swap to your car, and make sure you have ECU with it.... I think this will cost you way much less money than buying just a turbo and putting it on!
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4 Hours Ago	? #10
? DIYMA Regular Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: 30 minutes from SF! Posts: 893 Thanks: 6 Thanked 33 Times in 26 Posts	Thank you all for this information. My only goal is to hit 200 and POSSIBLY 250. 87.5 mm bore, 101 mm stroke, 9.4 compression ratio As I sad my car DID have a turbo on it to about 187Hp. This is why I thought I could hit 200 on my stock and be fine. I'm trying to do this the cheapest and most efficient way as my car only has under 50k miles. I don't have any forged parts but the SRT-4 had forged pistons, and connecting rods. So as I see it with such low mileage an engine swap is SO much work and me not knowing jack on this, is kinda a huge risk. Yes I realize won't be as much fun as a manual but this is what I have and I already have fun with it ^_^. My ECU can't be re-mapped, changed or altered. THERE IS NO SUCH THING FOR MY CAR. Lets see what type of boost I can safely run and see how much is required to hit my mark of 200-250. From there we can discuss if this is still possible or just a bad idea.
	Last edited by nick650; 4 Hours Ago at 11:31 AM..
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3 Hours Ago	? #11
? DIYMA freshman Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Middle TN Posts: 39 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	I thought you said that the car had a turbo on it in the mexico version, not that your car actually used to have a turbo on it. I used to have a 1987 Buick Grand National. Turbocharged 3.8 liter V-6. The Buick Regal was the same car, and it came with a non-turbocharged 3.8 V6 (although you could get a Type T that was turbocharged). Under the hood they had the same engine style, but apart from that, they were completely different animals. Everyone thinks that the computer in their car will "adjust" to whatever they want to do to it. It can compensate for minute differences in airflow, but it still goes off of fuel and timing maps that are programmed into it. Timing needs to retard as well as fuel enrichment under boost. The stock fuel pump and fuel injectors will not supply the required amount of fuel. Lean a car out under boost, and you'll let the magic smoke out of the engine. Same thing goes with Nitrous Oxide. Any time you put a power adder onto a newer car, the maps HAVE to be adjusted. If not, then you probably need to keep a Milk crate in the back of your car to pick up the parts off the road once she lets loose.
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2 Hours Ago	? #14
? DIYMA Enthusiast Join Date: May 2009 Location: Bakersfield Posts: 2,288 Thanks: 72 Thanked 150 Times in 127 Posts	Quote: I thought you said that the car had a turbo on it in the mexico version, not that your car actually used to have a turbo on it. I used to have a 1987 Buick Grand National. Turbocharged 3.8 liter V-6. The Buick Regal was the same car, and it came with a non-turbocharged 3.8 V6 (although you could get a Type T that was turbocharged). Under the hood they had the same engine style, but apart from that, they were completely different animals. . The normally aspirated 3.8 and turbo 3.8 were surprisingly close to the same. Same block and rods. Crank is the same casting but the turbo version had rolled fillets at the rod journals. Same heads as well. Pistons were the only major upgrade. So far I've made over 600hp on the stock cast split throw crank and stock rods and block. Only bottom end upgrades are a block girdle and JE pistons. Considering it started out life as a 105hp normally aspirated 3.8L, it was really overbuilt. That doesn't mean a thing. Engine management is EVERYTHING. Keeping it from detonation is more important than the internals, than the transmission, than everything. I blew a few engines back when my car was only making roughly 400hp because I didn't know how to tune and it detonated. Now that it's getting close to 700hp at the crank, and I have the tuning thing down, it's been extremely reliable. You must have an ECU compatable with boost. This means less timing, richer target AF ratio, and the knock sensor scaling is usually more aggressive to deal with the more severe detonation of a turbo engine if it occurs. Most of the time, it's not the HP level that blows these engines, it's the fact that knock was not monitored and allowed to go on. Get the electronics right and your stock bottom end will be fine. Throw boost on top of a stock ECU even with forged internals and it will let go. Don't forget, 10psi is about 75% more airflow than it would see at sea level at full throttle. It's not a small difference.
	'84 GN 10.60@ 127mph. Infinity 3.5 coaxials and a cheap Sony HU. '06 TL. Front stage- Dynaudio 102, 430, 182....Center- Dyn 650/102.... AE IB15s....JL HD600/4, HD900/5....MS8....SecondSkin
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2 Hours Ago	? #15
? DIYMA freshman Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Middle TN Posts: 39 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Quote: The normally aspirated 3.8 and turbo 3.8 were surprisingly close to the same. Same block and rods. Crank is the same casting but the turbo version had rolled fillets at the rod journals. Same heads as well. Pistons were the only major upgrade. So far I've made over 600hp on the stock cast split throw crank and stock rods and block. Only bottom end upgrades are a block girdle and JE pistons. Considering it started out life as a 105hp normally aspirated 3.8L, it was really overbuilt. That doesn't mean a thing. Engine management is EVERYTHING. Keeping it from detonation is more important than the internals, than the transmission, than everything. I blew a few engines back when my car was only making roughly 400hp because I didn't know how to tune and it detonated. Now that it's getting close to 700hp at the crank, and I have the tuning thing down, it's been extremely reliable. You must have an ECU compatable with boost. This means less timing, richer target AF ratio, and the knock sensor scaling is usually more aggressive to deal with the more severe detonation of a turbo engine if it occurs. Most of the time, it's not the HP level that blows these engines, it's the fact that knock was not monitored and allowed to go on. Get the electronics right and your stock bottom end will be fine. Throw boost on top of a stock ECU even with forged internals and it will let go. Don't forget, 10psi is about 75% more airflow than it would see at sea level at full throttle. It's not a small difference. Very true... That's kind of what I was trying to imply, you said it alot better. Same basic engine, totally different result. On a side note, I see that in your pic it looks as if you have what looks like GNX wheels on yours. Very nice
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2 Hours Ago	? #16
? DIYMA freshman Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Cedar Park, TX Posts: 182 Thanks: 4 Thanked 9 Times in 9 Posts	You can, but unfortunately not reliably to the levels you seek. You would need an adjustable FPR, fuel pressure regulator because yours would not be able to provide the necessary fuel pressure under boost conditions. You would also another map sensor that is able to send the correct voltage to the ecu under boost conditions. Then you Fuel/Air and Ignition maps would have to be modified to rewritten to ensure you had the necessary corrections for load and boost demand. With those levels and 9.4:1 static compression, I can pretty much guarantee that you will crack the ring lands way before you bend a conn rod....been there, done that. It can be done, but you would need a Stand Alone management unit, Adjustable FPR, HO fuel pump, WideBand o2 for tuning, and a plethora of other parts, and so far, none of that will actually force additional air into the motor. Even if you piece parted all the gear together on a super strict budget, you would be looking to spend 5-6k on parts...then you have to get it tuned. Without rebuilding the motor and replacing at least the pistons with 8 or 8.5:1 (another 300-500bucks plus labor) you would be limited to about 10-14 lbs without conn rods... So take your 187HP and knock it down to 135HP or so, then add 65-80 percent... that would ballpark 190-225 at the crank. I am sure there are others that can chime in...but you are better off finding something already with a turbo, or much more turbo friendly. My 96 Civic made well over 475HP at the wheels on a very modest tune (24lbs of boost, pig rich on top, and not nearly enough timing)...that was with 1.8liters. Bought the cars sans motor and tranny for a grand....by the time it was all done had 11K in it including the car...so 10K for motor, tranny, turbo, fuel, and management....
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1 Hour Ago	? #17
? DIYMA Regular Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: 30 minutes from SF! Posts: 893 Thanks: 6 Thanked 33 Times in 26 Posts	BALLZ! You guys make it sound like its a freaking time bomb . Fuel management is roughly 3-6 hundred and that turbo I saw, is like 1k with inter-cooler. HOW ABOUT THIS! How much can I boost on BARE STOCK MOTOR! What if I added a fuel management system? The boost I have I won't require any internal upgrades such as rods/ pistons. Fuel and electrical spark timing is what I would need. I'm not looking for ANYTHING MORE. Just some simple get up and go. Just like the Chrysler from Mexico. There has to be a point where what I add is to much and I can figure it out and back off from that point. NOTE: my car is 150 Hp and they brought it (Mexico) to 168 LOLZ. But I want 200 ^_^. There is nothing on that they changed anything with the car's internals/ electronics. I'm just trying to make 50 HP-75 HP only. Witch is 200-225Hp total.
	Last edited by nick650; 1 Hour Ago at 02:29 PM..
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36 Minutes Ago	? #19
? DIYMA Regular Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: 30 minutes from SF! Posts: 893 Thanks: 6 Thanked 33 Times in 26 Posts	As most projects are but I managed Really feeling this is going south really fast but just seeing what I can and can't do and seems the point of gaining 50 Hp is not gonna happen and it's better off to swap an engine but then that relates back to making it all fit (crank and all) witch idk if it would witch then means there is no hope. I just want a small increase
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4 Minutes Ago	? #23
? DIYMA Enthusiast Join Date: May 2010 Location: IL Posts: 1,147 Thanks: 14 Thanked 32 Times in 31 Posts	Quote: You can, but unfortunately not reliably to the levels you seek. You would need an adjustable FPR, fuel pressure regulator because yours would not be able to provide the necessary fuel pressure under boost conditions. You would also another map sensor that is able to send the correct voltage to the ecu under boost conditions. Then you Fuel/Air and Ignition maps would have to be modified to rewritten to ensure you had the necessary corrections for load and boost demand. With those levels and 9.4:1 static compression, I can pretty much guarantee that you will crack the ring lands way before you bend a conn rod....been there, done that. It can be done, but you would need a Stand Alone management unit, Adjustable FPR, HO fuel pump, WideBand o2 for tuning, and a plethora of other parts, and so far, none of that will actually force additional air into the motor. Even if you piece parted all the gear together on a super strict budget, you would be looking to spend 5-6k on parts...then you have to get it tuned. Without rebuilding the motor and replacing at least the pistons with 8 or 8.5:1 (another 300-500bucks plus labor) you would be limited to about 10-14 lbs without conn rods... So take your 187HP and knock it down to 135HP or so, then add 65-80 percent... that would ballpark 190-225 at the crank. I am sure there are others that can chime in...but you are better off finding something already with a turbo, or much more turbo friendly. My 96 Civic made well over 475HP at the wheels on a very modest tune (24lbs of boost, pig rich on top, and not nearly enough timing)...that was with 1.8liters. Bought the cars sans motor and tranny for a grand....by the time it was all done had 11K in it including the car...so 10K for motor, tranny, turbo, fuel, and management.... Agree, get yourself a 1.8T VW GTI, its already turbo charged, and do a upgrade to stage 3... I'm sure you could get at least 300-350 hpw! Its easier to upgrade to a higher stage of turbo's once you have one and the car came with it. Vs building it from scratch. I had a Vortex supercharger on my VR6 Golf GTI, and it was a monster... But I had to send my ECU to get reprogrammed for it. As he stated, more air, more fuel, whole new animal. You will spend more at the end than the car is worth of trying to do a upgrade like that... Just Sayin!
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